979 Route 9
Gansevoort, NY 12831
Phn: 518 793 3350
Closed Mondays
Chez Pierre is just north of Saratoga, hidden away on Route 9 between Northway exits 16 and 17. The website lists their address as Gansevoort, which is really five miles south. The cocktail coasters state that the place is in Wilton. Just outside the parking lot is a sign that welcomes you to the town of Moreau. Confused yet? The website lists a different address for patrons looking to find the place via GPS. I can tell you that my Droid's Google Maps program would have none of it, leading me to a spot a few miles south of the restaurant. I kept driving north on 9, searching for the neon Eiffel Tower, appearing in the mist like a Brigadoon during track season.
Chez Pierre has a wonderful history, which is worth telling. The story begins in WWII France, where a young GI named Joe (honest) Baldwin meets a young local lass Pierrette, whose family operates the local village bistro. They fall in love; the young GI asks for her hand; Dad says come back to France when this is all over and we'll talk. He does; they (say I) do. GI Joe brings her back to Gansevoort (or Wilton, or Moreau). Enter the eponymous first born Pierre, soon followed by Patrica, Patrick and Pia, all of whom have been involved in the restaurant's operation. Pia was in the dining room last Wednesday, welcoming regular patrons as they stopped in for dinner, most of whom arrived after a day at the track. Pia's husband Lincoln now runs the kitchen and serves up French country classics, traditional dishes that have not changed over the restaurant's forty eight years in business.
As traditional as the menu is, the dining room and lounge area is even more so. Around the bar were scattered bent wire bistro chairs, at tables set with white and pink linen. The back bar showcased a collection of 1960's era collectible liquor bottles, cast as sailing ships and automobiles and thankfully - no busts of Elvis. It really looks like the French bistro set from every MGM musical you've ever seen; all that was missing was Gene Kelly washing glasses behind the bar.
I stopped in last Wednesday, and had dinner at the bar with my new favorite bartender Alie. I arrived at 6:30, just before the Saratoga crowd showed up for cocktails. Alie started me off with a basket of warm sliced baguette, which appeared with a slab of house made pate. The portion was a Mel's Diner meatloaf sized slab of a very tasty pate, which was a perfect companion for the baguette, but I immediately regretted ordering an appetizer. That is until my grenouilles ($11) showed up. I love frogs legs. These were very nicely prepared, lightly breaded and sauteed in a lemony white wine and butter sauce. Perfect.
Next came a salad of mixed greens dressed with a home made watercress vinaigrette dressing, which came with my entree. As I finished my salad and sipped on a glass of chardonnay, I studied some of the French writings that adorned the walls around the restaurant. Scrolled over the back bar it read: "Quand ce Coq chantera credit l'on fera" which I think means - You'll get credit when the cock crows - but I could be wrong on that. The appetizer offerings include many of your favorite classics including my froggies. Also listed were escargot ($12), Coquille St. Jacques ($14), and of course, onion soup ($7).
Similarly, the entrees read like the menu from the 39 World's Fair's Le Pavillon ~ Veal Oscar ($30) (seriously, when was the last time you saw Veal Oscar on a menu), sauteed medallions of veal Francaise style ($25), roast duckling ($25) l'orange or served with a bing cherry sauce, and Lobster Newburg ($38). I ordered the chef's special for the evening - another Continental classic - Veal Rossini. Two slices of veal loin, finished with a luscious brown sauce flavored with sauteed shallots and spiked with demi and Madeira and topped with a smear of goose liver foie gras. Served with scalloped potatoes and roasted green beans, it was very nicely done and also a trip down memory lane.
Chez Pierre hits its stride during the summer months of racing season, but stays open throughout the winter. I look forward to a return visit this fall, when I imagine the bustle of the Saratoga Racetrack crowd will give way to the tempo of a local village bistro. That is, after all, how our story started.
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