Twenty years ago I was staying at a fishing lodge in Labrador fly fishing (catch and release) for Atlantic salmon. There was a fascinating couple staying at the lodge with me. After college they had taught the native Inuit children, following the migrating caribou herd on snow mobiles. After they got tired of doing that (Can't imagine why!) they went to work for the government, and he was then the Director of Tourism for Newfoundland and Labrador. At dinner one night, the owner, Gudie Hutchings, served a Newfoundland delicacy, deep fried cod tongues. This couple chided Gudie, and told the story of the collapse of the northern cod fishery. He made a statement that has stayed with me to this day. He said that the Newfoundland fisherman had developed the technology to catch the last fish in the ocean, and unfortunately they were doing it. We have all heard the end of that story....
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Friday, August 27, 2010
Cafe Les Baux - Millbrook, New York
Cafe Les Baux
152 Church Street
Millbrook, NY
845 677 8166
No list of local bistros would be complete without including Cafe Les Baux, Herve Bochard's charming Millbrook eatery. A frequent destination for a lunch with Millbrook clients, I enjoy the restaurant's authentic French bistro fare – Escargot au Pernod, Croque-Monsieur, Saucisson sec Beurre, Salade Nicoise, and the best French Onion soup in Millbrook. (Note that I refrained from “best onion soup in Dutchess County” to avoid the phone call from Claude at lePavillon.)
This place has charming written all over it. It is a small, intimate space, with a dozen tables divided into two rooms, one with a small service bar. Its a popular spot with the locals. I usually feel like I'm the one person in the room that doesn't know everyone else. The service is consistently efficient and friendly, even if I'm one of the few patrons not a first name basis with the staff.
Start with the onion soup – served gratinee, piping hot and delicious. A basket of sliced baguette - as good as it gets in these parts – will go perfectly with this dish.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Natalie Merchant at the Bardavon - October 8
Not at all food related, but you might want to know about this:
Natalie Merchant & Hudson Valley Philharmonic together at the Bardavon on October 8th. Tickets go on sale to members only on September 7th and to the general public one week later on September 14th. Based on the buzz I do believe this will sell out to members only during the first week. Not a member yet? Here's one more reason to join.http://www.Bardavon.org/ for more membership info.
http://www.bardavon.org/event_info.php?i
Natalie Merchant will perform music from her newest LP, Leave Your Sleep, as well as songs from her extensive catalog. This is the first time Natalie has performed with the HVP since 1995.
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Sunday, August 22, 2010
Ship Lantern Inn, Milton, New York
Ship Lantern Inn
Route 9 W
Milton, NY
845 795 5400
www.shiplanterninn.com
There are two types of customers at the Ship Lantern Inn. The young couple sitting in the corner, trying to figure out which is the oyster fork, is probably here for the first time. Perhaps they remember coming here with their parents after graduation. It may be the most formal setting they have dined in since their last special occasion, and it is a special occasion tonight; probably someone's birthday.
The rest of the crowd has been coming here for years. More likely decades, like me. It is still a special place for us, but for different reasons. The Ship Lantern Inn, or the Ship, as we affectionately call it, is the home of tradition. It reeks of tradition. It is a proud standard bearer of what was called "continental" dining, a style of menu that all but disappeared thirty years ago. I do not say that pejoratively, but reverentially.
Route 9 W
Milton, NY
845 795 5400
www.shiplanterninn.com
There are two types of customers at the Ship Lantern Inn. The young couple sitting in the corner, trying to figure out which is the oyster fork, is probably here for the first time. Perhaps they remember coming here with their parents after graduation. It may be the most formal setting they have dined in since their last special occasion, and it is a special occasion tonight; probably someone's birthday.
The rest of the crowd has been coming here for years. More likely decades, like me. It is still a special place for us, but for different reasons. The Ship Lantern Inn, or the Ship, as we affectionately call it, is the home of tradition. It reeks of tradition. It is a proud standard bearer of what was called "continental" dining, a style of menu that all but disappeared thirty years ago. I do not say that pejoratively, but reverentially.
Le Bistro - Westport, New York
Le Bistro at the Westport Yacht Club
Westport, New York
518-962-8777
I've mentioned in these posts before just how difficult it is to make a living running a restaurant in the Adirondacks. The season – for most locations – is July 4th through Labor Day. Depending upon the market you may see some traffic after Memorial Day weekend, and maybe Columbus Day in the fall, but the bills get paid with the money that's made during the nine or ten weeks between the July 4th and Labor Day weekend. Everything else is gravy. That is the reason we have so many “Mom and Pop” operations here with one partner (typically Pop) in the back running the kitchen, and the spouse (usually Mom) minding the front of the house. Add a few staff to handle the weekend extra traffic, but keep the costs down! The restaurant at the Westport Yacht Club – Le Bistro – is just such a place.
Westport, New York
518-962-8777
I've mentioned in these posts before just how difficult it is to make a living running a restaurant in the Adirondacks. The season – for most locations – is July 4th through Labor Day. Depending upon the market you may see some traffic after Memorial Day weekend, and maybe Columbus Day in the fall, but the bills get paid with the money that's made during the nine or ten weeks between the July 4th and Labor Day weekend. Everything else is gravy. That is the reason we have so many “Mom and Pop” operations here with one partner (typically Pop) in the back running the kitchen, and the spouse (usually Mom) minding the front of the house. Add a few staff to handle the weekend extra traffic, but keep the costs down! The restaurant at the Westport Yacht Club – Le Bistro – is just such a place.
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Summer's End
It seems like we were just looking forward to summer, searching for the first sign of wild leeks in the woods around the house. Now we are making plans for Labor Day weekend. Where did the time go? Last Saturday was the last show at the Seagle Colony. The students were all gone by yesterday. This weekend we will try to see one last show at the Depot Theater in Westport and grab dinner at Le Bistro down at the marina before they close for the season.
Night time temperatures are already chilling the lake, and in a few weeks it will be to cool to swim comfortably. August in the Adirondacks is a transition month, offering glimpses of the weather just around the corner. One morning last week the thermometer read 40º but it was still 80º by noon. Just a taste of September, when the “80º by noon” part will disappear. The farmers markets are out of the early summer favorites like asparagus and peas. The woods are full of blackberries and raspberries, but the blueberry crop – at least around Bullet Pond - was nonexistent this August. Soon the winter squashes and brussel sprouts will make their appearance and the brook trout will decorate the streams with their spawning colors. Hunting season is just around the corner. Hopefully that means some venison sausage hanging next to a prosciutto in the cellar, even if I have to pilfer the venison from a friend who is a better shot. The wild arugula around the house will be put up as pesto, blended with walnuts and olive oil, and frozen in meal size portions. I'll walk over to see if the hen of the woods mushroom is ready for picking, or more likely to find the resident bear decided it was his first. I pray my tomatoes have a few more weeks before the first frost, but the race is on. We have harvested a grand total of one so far from the garden, but I have numerous green fruit on each of the plants. Luckily our friends Dennis and Susan delivered a weekly “care package” cooler from their garden in Esopus, so we have not lacked for veggies this summer – zucchini and patty pan squash, kohlrabi and beets (with tops!), basil and swiss chard, and many different kinds of heirloom tomatoes. It was a feast every weekend. I guess I owe them at least a few drinks, eh? Their weekly deliveries will soon slow to a trickle, with a stalk of brussel sprouts for Thanksgiving dinner being the traditional “finale”.
As much as I love autumn, I hate the thought of summer ending. It is almost time to fill the bird feeders. To everything there is a season.
Night time temperatures are already chilling the lake, and in a few weeks it will be to cool to swim comfortably. August in the Adirondacks is a transition month, offering glimpses of the weather just around the corner. One morning last week the thermometer read 40º but it was still 80º by noon. Just a taste of September, when the “80º by noon” part will disappear. The farmers markets are out of the early summer favorites like asparagus and peas. The woods are full of blackberries and raspberries, but the blueberry crop – at least around Bullet Pond - was nonexistent this August. Soon the winter squashes and brussel sprouts will make their appearance and the brook trout will decorate the streams with their spawning colors. Hunting season is just around the corner. Hopefully that means some venison sausage hanging next to a prosciutto in the cellar, even if I have to pilfer the venison from a friend who is a better shot. The wild arugula around the house will be put up as pesto, blended with walnuts and olive oil, and frozen in meal size portions. I'll walk over to see if the hen of the woods mushroom is ready for picking, or more likely to find the resident bear decided it was his first. I pray my tomatoes have a few more weeks before the first frost, but the race is on. We have harvested a grand total of one so far from the garden, but I have numerous green fruit on each of the plants. Luckily our friends Dennis and Susan delivered a weekly “care package” cooler from their garden in Esopus, so we have not lacked for veggies this summer – zucchini and patty pan squash, kohlrabi and beets (with tops!), basil and swiss chard, and many different kinds of heirloom tomatoes. It was a feast every weekend. I guess I owe them at least a few drinks, eh? Their weekly deliveries will soon slow to a trickle, with a stalk of brussel sprouts for Thanksgiving dinner being the traditional “finale”.
As much as I love autumn, I hate the thought of summer ending. It is almost time to fill the bird feeders. To everything there is a season.
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Thursday, August 12, 2010
The $600 Tomato
An Adirondack Tomato, from my very own garden. It only took nineteen years to grow one. And $600.
Tomorrow we will eat it.
Or not.
I may release it.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Tasting Notes - Arielle, Rhinebeck, New York
We had dinner at Arielle in Rhinebeck last night, which was our first visit to the restaurant. The bistro has been near the top of the buzz charts locally for some time, and we were not disappointed with our meal. The space has the look and feel of a traditional Parisian brasserie; it looked just like a smaller version of Les Halles in New York. Long banquettes with overstuffed pillows line both walls. A very young wait staff worked the floor on Tuesday, and the atmosphere - and the service - were laid back and casual. A few bistro classics can be found on the menu - including steak frites and cassoulet. I passed on the cassoulet, which is one of my all time favorite dishes, but I was surprised to see it on a summer menu. Most of the menu is more eclectic with pastas, steaks, fired calamari, and grilled sardines included in the offerings. My pork "Milanese" was quite good, if not prepared in a traditional method - pounded thin, then breaded, and served with arugula and cherry tomatoes. They had skipped the pounded part, but the chop was still tender and quite tasty. My appetizer of fried artichokes was even better, served in a lemony yogurt caper sauce. Mary enjoyed her beet salad appetizer and a main course of scallops and orzo with peas. We washed it all down with a delicious and reasonably priced bottle of Cotes de Provence rose. The slices of baguette which showed up with the appetizers were fantastic, but we were disappointed to find only one piece for each of us. It seemed like an abberation in an otherwise wonderful presentation, but when we asked for more we were brought exactly two more pieces. If they ever have escargot on the menu I will wear the poor server out going back for more bread for dunking. Dinner for two including wine, tax, and a 20% tip came to $149.
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Monday, August 9, 2010
Ten Rules for Restaurants
On this site we often mention the reasons that restaurants make it onto our list of favorites. We have particular things that make us happy, that make us want to come back again and again. It is usually a combination of good food and a welcoming atmosphere, the latter being provided by a staff that is competent, attentive and friendly. Good food can mean different things to different people. If you don't like cilantro you'll probably not like Mexican. If you don't care for garlic, you will probably not like Italian cooking, no matter how “good” we tell you it is. Good service, on the other hand is more easily quantified. With few exceptions there is a right way and a wrong way to do things. Last winter the NY Times Dining Blog had a list of 100 things restaurant staffers should and should not do. The list contained the obvious – Don't disappear., and the esoteric – Don't play brass on the sound system? I guess most people don't like brass. Could be why I have never seen the Canadian Brass playing in a restaurant.
Our list is more personal. It's a list of what we really like – why we keep coming back - and what really ticks us off (especially Grumpy), in no particular order.
Our list is more personal. It's a list of what we really like – why we keep coming back - and what really ticks us off (especially Grumpy), in no particular order.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Seagle Music Colony Patron's BBQ
On Sunday we hosted a Barbecue for the Young Artists and Staff of the Seagle Music Colony. Pulled Pork, Texas Style brisket, and North Country Ribs. The complete post is on NorthCountryBBQ.com
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
El Castillo Espanol - Poughkeepsie, NY
El Castillo Espanol
763 Main Street
Poughkeepsie, NY 12603
Phn 845 452 5924
www.CastilloEspanolRestaurant.com
El Castillo Espanol Restaurant is now closed.
Our Wednesday night crew has been going to El Castillo Espanol for many, many years. In order for a restaurant to become one of our favorites, it must meet a few minimum requirements. First it must have a bar. Stop your snickering; we have a good reason for the bar prerequisite. If all of the stars are in alignment we will have anywhere from four to eight people for dinner each week, coming from Dutchess and Ulster Counties. We need a place to collect and wait for everyone to show up after work. Sitting at a table by yourself is not fun, so we frequent restaurants that also have a bar. Over the years this has caused us to miss out on some very good restaurants for the lack of the said aforementioned bar. One that comes to mind immediately is the old Busy Bee, a wonderful restaurant that we rarely went to. Perhaps if it had a bar would still be open? Or not.
Castillo has a small but very nice bar. If you are the first to arrive you might have to shoo the owners' children off of your bar stool, as the bar area also serves as the TV viewing area after school. Not a problem. We will typically start with a bottle of white Rioja, and more often than not have a platter of appetizers at the bar. This tradition was started by the owners, who almost always bring us out a mixed platter filled with calamari, chorizo sausage, baked clams and sauteed shrimp. For normal people this would be dinner, but we are not normal. Ask almost anyone.
763 Main Street
Poughkeepsie, NY 12603
Phn 845 452 5924
www.CastilloEspanolRestaurant.com
El Castillo Espanol Restaurant is now closed.
Our Wednesday night crew has been going to El Castillo Espanol for many, many years. In order for a restaurant to become one of our favorites, it must meet a few minimum requirements. First it must have a bar. Stop your snickering; we have a good reason for the bar prerequisite. If all of the stars are in alignment we will have anywhere from four to eight people for dinner each week, coming from Dutchess and Ulster Counties. We need a place to collect and wait for everyone to show up after work. Sitting at a table by yourself is not fun, so we frequent restaurants that also have a bar. Over the years this has caused us to miss out on some very good restaurants for the lack of the said aforementioned bar. One that comes to mind immediately is the old Busy Bee, a wonderful restaurant that we rarely went to. Perhaps if it had a bar would still be open? Or not.
Castillo has a small but very nice bar. If you are the first to arrive you might have to shoo the owners' children off of your bar stool, as the bar area also serves as the TV viewing area after school. Not a problem. We will typically start with a bottle of white Rioja, and more often than not have a platter of appetizers at the bar. This tradition was started by the owners, who almost always bring us out a mixed platter filled with calamari, chorizo sausage, baked clams and sauteed shrimp. For normal people this would be dinner, but we are not normal. Ask almost anyone.
Sunday, August 1, 2010
BBQ Throwdown at the Adirondack Museum
Cooking Out at the Adirondack Museum
Blue Mountain Lake, New York
Last Thursday the Adirondack Museum staged a celebration of food cooked with smoke and fire. The event complemented the ongoing North Country food exhibit entitled Lets Eat – Adirondack Food Traditions - that the museum has been running all summer. Naturalist Jane Desotell gave two presentations. Edible Adirondack mushrooms was the focus of her first talk. Later in the afternoon she gave a power point presentation on edible wild vegetables of the Adirondacks. John Roe from the culinary program at Paul Smiths gave two presentations on smoking foods, and offered samples of the smoked hens he had prepared at the conclusion of each session. The highlight of the day, at least for me, was the campfire cook-off, which pitted area chefs in a juried competition. Five area restaurants were represented: barVino and Lorenzo's of North Creek, The Mirror Lake Inn in Lake Placid, The Cellar in Long Lake, and Paul Smith's College. Each team was asked to prepare a full meal, using only an outdoor wood fired grill. The competition started at 11 AM, and the meals were to be judged at exactly 1 PM.
Blue Mountain Lake, New York
Last Thursday the Adirondack Museum staged a celebration of food cooked with smoke and fire. The event complemented the ongoing North Country food exhibit entitled Lets Eat – Adirondack Food Traditions - that the museum has been running all summer. Naturalist Jane Desotell gave two presentations. Edible Adirondack mushrooms was the focus of her first talk. Later in the afternoon she gave a power point presentation on edible wild vegetables of the Adirondacks. John Roe from the culinary program at Paul Smiths gave two presentations on smoking foods, and offered samples of the smoked hens he had prepared at the conclusion of each session. The highlight of the day, at least for me, was the campfire cook-off, which pitted area chefs in a juried competition. Five area restaurants were represented: barVino and Lorenzo's of North Creek, The Mirror Lake Inn in Lake Placid, The Cellar in Long Lake, and Paul Smith's College. Each team was asked to prepare a full meal, using only an outdoor wood fired grill. The competition started at 11 AM, and the meals were to be judged at exactly 1 PM.
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